June 2-3 Ginza
PLEASE NOTE: I have not had the chance to watermark all of my photos, and it will take me a great deal of time, as I published this and my other blogs between 2010-2017. I ask you to respect my property. Feel free to use them as long as you credit me as follows: Photo by Jody McBrien, learningtheworld.org. Thank you.
I was able to find decent seats for a daytime performance at the Kabukiza Theatre on Friday, June 2, so we decided to take an overnight trip to enjoy the tradition of kabuki and the glitz of a Friday night in Tokyo at the glitziest area in the city: Ginza.
Ginza originated in the Edo period in 1603 and the shogunate moved the silver coin mint there in 1612(where it still exists today). Ginza was originally low lying marshland that was built up in the late 1500s. It became a prosperous area inhabited by many artisans, performers, kimono makers, and shops.
It has seen its share of disasters - a major fire in 1872, great earthquake in 1923, and air bombings in 1945. Still, it maintains the block grid system from its origins. Ironically, the area had been neglected prior to the fire. After the fire, the Meiji government decided to modernize the area with brick buildings, and to Westernize the area (so hired an Irish-born architect, Thomas Waters, to mastermind the re-building). The main street was widened, and beautified with cherry trees and others plantings. Western style shops and restaurants were introduced, attracting people back to the area. A new railway added to the people frequenting Ginza.
Brick buildings in humid Ginza were not practical, but the Great Kanto Earthquake destroyed most of them. The 1945 bombings also destroyed much of the area, but resulted in further modernization bringing the area to its present state: among the most expensive geography in the world with the most exclusive labels on earth: Gucci, Prada, de Beers, Tiffany's, and many more.
There is so much more history! A good place to get more details is "Tokyo Ginza Official" (http://www.ginza.jp/en/history).
Kabuki, one of the three traditional forms of Japanese theatre (the others being Noh and Bunraku - puppets) also became popular in the Edo period. It was originally performed only by women. However, the Takugawa Shogunate of the Edo period forbade women from performing. Since that time, all roles are performed by men. It is known for elaborate costumes and themes of history, moral conflicts, and love stories, and it was popular among the common people (as opposed to the far more stylized Noh play). Dance and live music is included.
The Kabukiza Theatre, where we saw three Kabuki plays, is the best known place to enjoy the art form. It has also been destroyed over time periods and was reopened in 2013. A skyscraper towers behind it.
The seats are Western, but the space between the aisles was built for small people and short legs. Even I at 5'2" welcomed the long intermissions between the plays. The whole occasion lasts a bit over 4 hours, so kudos to my 5'10" husband for sticking it out - and even greatly enjoying himself! Photos are not allowed during the performance, but I found a few on the internet to give you some ideas.
After the play, we relaxed for a bit in our hotel room before going in search of dinner. We wandered for some time and came upon a restaurant with a casual feel to it that served delicious Japanese beef. After skipping lunch, we were hungry and happy that the full meal included a salad, bread, and coffee. Given the typical price of Japanese beef, the bill was far more reasonable than we expected and included all the wine we wanted.
Next we did what has become quite customary for us - got lost wandering around looking at the skylights. Got some great photos in the process. It is no major problem getting lost in Japan because the country is so safe. It's not like you are going to accidentally wander into some dangerous area.
After a restful night in the hotel, we left late morning in search of brunch and to enjoy the Chou-Dori (the main street) turned into a pedestrian section during a Saturday afternoon. We found a terrific little Italian place to eat. Then we took a couple hours walking the Chou-Dori and some side streets. Many shops were too expensive for me to even feel comfortable walking into, but we did go into a couple of the giant department stores, and I found a pretty hair clip to wear with my black kimono. By 2pm the street was mobbed, and we were anxious to catch a train back to relatively quiet Hachioji.
I was able to find decent seats for a daytime performance at the Kabukiza Theatre on Friday, June 2, so we decided to take an overnight trip to enjoy the tradition of kabuki and the glitz of a Friday night in Tokyo at the glitziest area in the city: Ginza.
Kabukiza Theatre
Ginza originated in the Edo period in 1603 and the shogunate moved the silver coin mint there in 1612(where it still exists today). Ginza was originally low lying marshland that was built up in the late 1500s. It became a prosperous area inhabited by many artisans, performers, kimono makers, and shops.
It has seen its share of disasters - a major fire in 1872, great earthquake in 1923, and air bombings in 1945. Still, it maintains the block grid system from its origins. Ironically, the area had been neglected prior to the fire. After the fire, the Meiji government decided to modernize the area with brick buildings, and to Westernize the area (so hired an Irish-born architect, Thomas Waters, to mastermind the re-building). The main street was widened, and beautified with cherry trees and others plantings. Western style shops and restaurants were introduced, attracting people back to the area. A new railway added to the people frequenting Ginza.
Brick buildings in humid Ginza were not practical, but the Great Kanto Earthquake destroyed most of them. The 1945 bombings also destroyed much of the area, but resulted in further modernization bringing the area to its present state: among the most expensive geography in the world with the most exclusive labels on earth: Gucci, Prada, de Beers, Tiffany's, and many more.
Wako Department Store with the famous clock tower
There is so much more history! A good place to get more details is "Tokyo Ginza Official" (http://www.ginza.jp/en/history).
Kabuki, one of the three traditional forms of Japanese theatre (the others being Noh and Bunraku - puppets) also became popular in the Edo period. It was originally performed only by women. However, the Takugawa Shogunate of the Edo period forbade women from performing. Since that time, all roles are performed by men. It is known for elaborate costumes and themes of history, moral conflicts, and love stories, and it was popular among the common people (as opposed to the far more stylized Noh play). Dance and live music is included.
The Kabukiza Theatre, where we saw three Kabuki plays, is the best known place to enjoy the art form. It has also been destroyed over time periods and was reopened in 2013. A skyscraper towers behind it.
The seats are Western, but the space between the aisles was built for small people and short legs. Even I at 5'2" welcomed the long intermissions between the plays. The whole occasion lasts a bit over 4 hours, so kudos to my 5'10" husband for sticking it out - and even greatly enjoying himself! Photos are not allowed during the performance, but I found a few on the internet to give you some ideas.
Next we did what has become quite customary for us - got lost wandering around looking at the skylights. Got some great photos in the process. It is no major problem getting lost in Japan because the country is so safe. It's not like you are going to accidentally wander into some dangerous area.
The Kabukiza Theatre at night
Tokyo Tower taken from the high-up lobby of a hotel (where we stopped to ask for directions!)
NOTE: June 2018 date on post is republish date, not date of the event.
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